As election posters start to plaster the walls and lamp posts in the Serb enclave of Gracanica, and Albanian turbo folk music drives me up the wall, and my temporary man-hating experience still boils low in me, and I am force fed by the Krasniqi family (not literally, but because they put all the kifle, flija, mantija, and all those home-made goods in front of you, you don't have a choice) one last time, the stories I've been working on in the last three days have finally come together.
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On Sunday, I spent almost the entire day on busses with Branimir, my Serb translator, going from town to town until we reached Cacak, deep inside of Serbia. There we met with Andrej Milic-- the commander of the Serb paramilitary group, Guard of Czar Lazar. (Dear Laura, you will appreciate this one). It was an interesting interview, to say the least, and I should say here that my conversations with Branimir were more enlightening than the interview with Mr. Milic. Branimir is perhaps one of the most decent people I've ever come across-- sensitive, intelligent, not to mention the tall-dark-and handsome-part, he was patient enough to explain his point of view as to why Kosovo can't be independent. He also missed the countdown to the Serb new year on Sunday night, and instead of spending it with his girlfriend and friends, was in the middle of a conversation over politics, religion, and life at the strike of 12am-- in a car in the middle of Mitrovica-- in north Kosovo. And I won't spill the beans about the interview that day until I really sit down to write about it.
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The story I've been working on since Monday has been on human trafficking here in Kosovo. I managed to 'finish' a story today, without even really starting on this issue-- and I feel sad about that. I just wish I had more time now to really work this topic. With the help of a US Army/KFOR contractor volunteering to translate for me, I interviewed a 20-year old girl-- I'll call her Arjana-- who was internally trafficked. Her story is a long, complex, and painful one, and it's not even over yet. I went back to the shelter where she is currently staying for three days in a row, simply to be around her, to reach some sort of comfort level, and for her to reveal more in a way that was not forced. Slowly, she opened up to me and I had a wonderful time with her today, accompanying her to her hairdressing lessons, and then out to a cafe with a few US Army/KFOR members.
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I can't think of more to say as it's 5am now, I'm half asleep, and I have to catch a flight (and really, not miss it this time)-- but what I will say is that the story I've started on trafficking is a topic I very much want to continue with, especially because my time with Aki has triggered something in me personally. More photos to come very soon.
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Andrej Milic, commander of the Guard of Czar Lazar
When the electricity fails you: a qebaptore in Gjilan
At a women's shelter. 'Aki', on the right, hoists up her roommate's 9-month old baby.